My First Muslin

It was a busy weekend at home! We had a lovely day out on Saturday where we visited nearby Brighouse, home to a lovely haberdashery called Top Stitch. It's packed with rooms, over two floors, full to the brim of everything you could need, including lots of lovely fabric. I managed to spend a little over £70 on enough fabric for three makes (two of which will be nice and woolly!) and lots of other little bits and pieces. Quite good value I thought, for the quality I got!

Anyhooo, Sunday was VERY busy! I decided on a whim to start my Juniper trousers. I ended up spending most of the day crouched over the cutting table. I've decided I want to trace all of my patterns out, rather than cut the tissue paper which should make life easier for making a pattern multiple times and for making adjustments.

I've decided though that I love Swedish tracing paper! It's the best thing ever 🙂 I don't plan to sew any of it together, which you can do, but it's so lovely to work with. But, tracing takes a while! So glad to get it finished, as you end up with a beautiful pile of lovely cut out things…

The actual cutting out of the blue muslin I'd decided to use didn't take long. What did take ages was the tracing! Maybe it's because muslin is so thin but it slid about a lot and didn't like to be drawn on at all. We had quite a bit of a fight!

Initial stages of assembly went quite well. I did skip a few things, such as pressing all of my seams, but for the muslin I don't think I needed to do all of them. I soon reached the stage where I needed to think about adding my zip! (I've since realised that you should trim all of your threads as you go! No book or instructions anywhere actually tells you that!)

The zip insertion was actually really easy. When I make my actual trousers, I'll add what I think is called a fly-shield, which sits between the zip and your skin for added comfort.

The zip was the only fastening I did – I didn't bother adding the facing to the waistband or attaching the hook & eye closures.

As expected, there's a few things I need to tweak before the next version – but I need help diagnosing some of them, so be warned – you're about to see pictures of my butt and my crotch! (But I did put on fun knickers for good measure):

  • I think I need to add a bit more width to my hips across the butt
  • I need to sew the crotch better – it's pulling a bit at the bottom as I didn't seam it very well but this is easily done better next time
  • But theres other weird pulling at the crotch, around the zip – what do I need to amend here? I'm thinking of raising the crotch, and making that seam longer before you get to the zip? Or adding a bit more width across the front too?
  • What about the saggyness immediately under my butt? Should I narrow the outer seam of the trousers and then keep that line in order to narrow the leg?

Thoughts and feedback very welcome! My measurements are spot on for this size, so interesting that it seems to sport some of the issues that it does. I'll be ordering another trouser pattern to play with too from Sewaholic, so I can compare shapes and fits. They'll be a more fitted pair of trousers – definitely another hole that needs to be filled in my wardrobe!

Please hit me up with your fitting tips!


5 thoughts on “My First Muslin

  1. I think if both the backs and fronts were a little wider at the hipline it would help both the under the butt puckering and the front crotch, also it looks like your back seam is too short, not deep enough in the crotch maybe, it looks like the centre waist dips down a bit, how does the back seam feel when you sit? I like the width of the legs, what kind of fabric are you planning on using?

    1. I have a nice gabardine that I’m planning to use for the next make so they’ll be a lot more structured.

      They feel ok when I sit down, but I’ll ask OH to take a couple of pictures and have a look!

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